Wednesday, January 21, 2009

...to the smallest village, where my father was born

In the land of Obama, the American is queen.

Okeedokee, so I have now moved from Nairobi out to a little village in Nyanza Province called Sauri. I love love loooooove my new home! I'm living with an older couple, dad is a retired meteorologist and mom is a Community Health Worker (CHW) in the area. They have 7 children, but none of them are at home currently, so it's mostly just me, them, and all the visitors we usually have! Our home is RURAL. It's about a 10 minute walk from the main road to Kisumu, up in the green countryside through winding dirt roads. In our yard we have cows and chickens running around! There is a little main house, two smaller houses (called simbas, which are built for the married boys), another guest house for the girls, and a block of rooms for the animals, including another kitchen with a fire place and stone blocks for cooking on! I live in the main house with my parents. It's a small concrete structure, but very cozy on the inside, with a (relatively) big living room, a small dining room, a kitchen and pantry, 2 bedrooms and a storage room. I live in a small bedroom that is just perfect for me! A big bed, cabinet (with full length mirror--shocker!!) and a little table to put all my stuff on. It's very cute and just what I need after bedroom-switching everytime I'm back in Nairobi. We have electricity in the house, which no one else in the village has, so I'm very very lucky! There is running water....outside. We have a tap that I can use to get all the water I need for my bucket shower. We just heat it up over a fire before I go use it in the outdoor shower room. And our toilet is a latrine outside, but they have converted the squat toilet into a sitting one by adding a cement block and an actual toilet seat to it! Very crafty! It's mildly disconcerting when I'm showering or otherwise and giant moths are trying to dive-bomb me, but all-in-all, it's not bad.

My internship has not officially started yet because there was all this paperwork I had to do that had been overlooked, so I'm working on getting that done and officializing my stay here. Hopefully it comes through quickly, seeing as my time here is limited! All this red tape is really annoying. I don't see why they find it so necessary, considering that Jeff Sachs himself has already approved me for the project. But they just loooooove "procedure" here in Kenya...even when it prohibits me from being a useful member of the Millennium Villages team. I'm here, MVP! USE ME! LET ME WORK!!!!!

Oh yeah, did I even tell you what I'll be doing? Well, I'm working in the ORIGINAL millennium village: Sauri, Kenya. The Millennium Village Project is a spin-off from the larger Millennium Development Goals initiative. Basically, they are using rural villages across Africa as models of how to properly implement the MDGs to improve quality of life in poverty-stricken areas. Go to the website if you want to hear more about the goals and how they're progressing: http://www.endpoverty2015.org/. But anywho, Sauri was the first MV to be established, about 5 years ago. It has been a great model for the MDGs and quite successful in its initiatives. I'm going to (hopefully) be working on several different projects.
1) Working with a local school that recently received a computer lab, training the teachers & students in ICT and doing research on how to best utilize this resource for the best education of the students.
2) Working on a school to school initiative that will partner MV schools with schools in the US for a mutual learning commitment to each other.
3) I'll also be, unofficially, assiting with some medical team projects, which are currently TBD.
The third thing is what I've been doing this week, as I'm not yet approved to work in the schools here. I assisted with an HIV/AIDS training seminar for some local CHWs on Monday, and now I'm doing research for a triage project in the rural clincs. I'm loving the work so far and the people I'll be working with are fantastic, so it's looking very promising! I only wish I had been doing this work since the beginning so I could have been here for a longer time!

Now, something you may not know about the Kisumu area is that, just about 2 hours from town (one hour from the village where I live) is the home of Obama's father--where his grandmother and other relatives still live! This is the HEART of Obamaland! So you can imagine I was completely stoked to be here for his inauguration. Anywhere in Kenya, white people (not just Americans) get cat-called about Obama. But in Kisumu, it's NEVERENDING! People are sooooo excited to be a part of it. They all yell out "Oh, sista Obama!" "We make Obamas together!" "Obama Obama Obama!" "Mzungu, Obama, yes we can!". It's pretty funny, but I'm sure will get tiring after a few weeks. Maybe the fervor will start to die down now, though I doubt it! Anyway, I made the long and sometimes treacherous journey into town from my home yesterday morning. I say treacherous because, though usually it's fine, I happened to be in a matatu yesterday that had the brakes fail halfway through the trip! And I was in what we call the "death seat", aka the front middle seat with no seatbelts. But did that stop this vehicle from continuing? Nope! They really take this "yes we can!" attitude to the limit. The driver just would casually shift into first gear and put on the emergency brake anytime a stop was required. I was scared shitless, but what can you do? If I got out I'd have to pay for ANOTHER one, which may not come for another 10-30 minutes. I figured we were pretty close, and matatus always suck, so I'd just stick it out and get to Kisumu as fast as possible. Anyway, we made it without other mishaps, thank god. I went to the MVP offices for a while to do some paperwork, then I met up with Andre, Ashley, Jen, her husband Ben, and Dan to head to Sports Grounds. That's this big arena in town where they had set up huge screens to view the inauguration, and you can get well priced drinks and food there. Unfortunately, though predicatably, Sports Grounds was a MADHOUSE. There were thousands of Kenyans running around and screaming and dancing in celebration for Obama! It was NUTS. In the end, we moved to the Imperial Hotel across the street to watch. That was a lot more pleasant and easier to see and hear at. We watched everything go down in a very plush lounge with a nice, big flatscreen. At the same time, we could hear the multiple echoes of the TVs in Sports Grounds, so that we heard everything that was said three times! We also could hear the crowds cheering insanely...especially at the part where Obama mentioned Kogelo, his father's village. The screaming and cheering at that part (which is the title of this post) was INSANE!

After the inauguration speech (which made me cry, btw), a few of us really wanted to go back to Sports Grounds to celebrate with everyone there. So we dropped off some of our bags at the hotel desk and headed over. Almost immediatley, we were MOBBED by people! I guess at that point, nearly all the women had already left, and the remaining men were drunk, and the remaining kids were street kids looking to pickpocket. I was seriously disappointed because I had wanted to dance and have a good time with Obama's people, but the situation made it unbearable for my friends. They felt horribly violated by everyone hounding us, touching us, kids trying to steal from us or begging, etc. So we left after only a few minutes. I was soooo sad :(

So that was my Obama night. I loved watching the inauguration, and it is the first time in my life when I am proud to say I am American. But the celebrations afterward fell VERY short of my expectations. I just wish I had been here for the elections, because THAT was a party that everyone could go to and have fun at. Obamamania here is definitely more intense than in America!

Anyway, now I must get back to researching. But I will try to update this as much as possible because there will be a LOT to talk about here. I don't have any computer access near my home yet, but hopefully the ones at the school will prove useful.

All my love and congrats to everyone at home on our new prez! O-BA-MA! Now if only you all could hear the songs that have been written for him here since the election. They are priceless.

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